Sunday, December 06, 2015

Morocco

Courtesy flag for Morocco

We left Gibraltar with a favourable tide and spent a night at Tarifa, at the western end of the Strait. 
Early the next morning we set off towards Morocco. The first hurdle was to cross the shipping lane, which is one of the busiest in Europe. There is a steady stream of ships going both into and out of the Mediterranean, as well as fast ferries plying between Spain, Gibraltar and Morocco. We had to alter course to let one ship pass in front, then crossed the second five-mile wide lane without any close calls.

ships in Gibraltar Strait, Morocco behind


Close encounter with a ship, Gibraltar Straits


Once past Tangiers, we saw no more fast ferries, and the number of ships dropped off too as we headed south along the coastline. We had mixed feelings about visiting Morocco, as we had heard lots of unfavourable reports – from dirty streets infested with rats and cockroaches to hassle and theivery from local inhabitants. We decided to judge for ourselves when we got there. We were headed for Rabat, the capital city of Morocco, about 150 miles from Gibraltar. There was hardly any wind so we motor-sailed slowly, turning the engine off for the few hours that the wind picked up a little. It was an overnight trip, and the only hard part was looking out for fishing boats and nets at night, both of these can be unlit!

Reuben on swing at sea

fun at sea!


We arrived at Rabat around midday, and the marina sent out a small ‘pilot boat’ to guide us in. The entry is fairly shallow, and dangerous in swell over 2m. We had about 1.6m of swell, which picked up at the entrance, crashing impressively on the two breakwaters. It was both reassuring to have the pilot’s local knowledge and rather worrying when he kept signalling us to hold back just as a swell picked us up and pushed us onwards! Thankfully, we entered safely through the second set of breakwaters, and followed the pilot boat upriver, past Rabat’s towering city walls on one side and low-lying beaches on the other. Both sides of the river were busy with colourful wooden boats, and we had several welcoming waves, and what we hoped were friendly shouts from the fishermen!

Rabat kasbah city walls

colourful boats along the river

We were taken to the reception pontoon in a very smart new marina (five years old), and were immediately boarded by officials. We had the police on board, as well as customs and immigration, all in heavy official uniforms and long coats (in 25 degrees heat!). We had read in our pilot book about the practice of baksheesh (bribes), and how you must accept it as part of the way of life here. We had bought a sleeve of cigarettes in Gibraltar just for this purpose but were then unsure when to give it to them, who to, and how many?!

Dave showed them around the boat, while I filled out entry cards for each of us in the wheelhouse, then again in the customs office and yet another form for the police, and photocopies were taken of our passports and boat documents. This is standard procedure in non-EU countries and was all handled politely and efficiently.
We were then shown to our berth in the marina, and the pilot boat guys helped us with our ropes. We were still busy sorting ropes and fenders when the officials came en masse to return our passports. Was this the moment to pass the cigarettes? We took the passports and offered several packets of cigarettes, but were met with shakes of the head and cries of “No smoking”. All very perplexing. So after smiles and handshakes all round, it was all finished and no cigarettes had changed hands. That was a waste of eighteen euros! We later found out from a neighbouring boat that they are trying to stamp out baksheesh, and a large sign in the capitainerie encourages people witnessing any bribe-taking to report it to the authorities.


new waterfront at Sale marina

The marina sat on the north side of the river, on the edge of a town called Sale, which was renowned in centuries gone by for its fierce pirates. The ‘Sallee Rovers’ attacked ships all along the Atlantic coast and even ventured as far as Britain. Seamen captured were then sold into slavery outside the Kasbah walls; this was the basis for the Robinson Crusoe story. They took over 1,000 European ships between 1620 and 1630 before finally being subdued in the late 17th century by Moulay Ismael, who incorporated the pirates (and their revenue) into his state.

The marina itself was very safe – sat in the middle of a new (still being built) complex of luxury apartments and restaurants, and dotted with security guards. We were quite happy to leave the boat unlocked there. As you would expect, since the King kept his boat there!
Medina entrance, Sale





We had no local money – dirhams - so went for a wander into Sale to find a cash machine. The ‘medina’ was contained within city walls, and we entered through a large stone archway. Inside was a complete town, with small workshops dotted between clothes shops, banks and tearooms. We joined the general flow of people, passing a man welding on the street, tea bars full of men, and several people wobbling through on bicycles, or pushing barrows of oranges. Further in were bustling market streets selling vegetables, spices, and household goods. A large square in the centre had a big park, so we headed there to let the children play.


traditional window, Sale

  
man with a traditional instrument, both a
guitar and a drum!

This first day was quite overwhelming, and we were conscious of being the only white people in town. We received a few inquisitive glances, and I wondered if my short-sleeved T-shirt was inappropriate, as everybody else seemed to have arms and legs covered up, and many had extra scarves or cardigans. Upon inquiry at the marina later, it turns out that they were simply feeling the cold, (despite it being 20+ degrees), as it is winter there!

It was interesting to see the wide range of clothing styles the Moroccans wore. The majority of ladies wore traditional long dresses with baggy trousers underneath. Most, but certainly not all, wore headscarves. Many wore a headscarf with jeans and sneakers. Regardless of dress style, women seemed happy to wear make-up and sunglasses. Younger men seemed to dress more casually, but many men wore the traditional long trousers and smock tops. We saw a few wearing full-length robes with hoods.


lady in traditional dress outside the kasbah


Rabat itself lay across the river, we caught a tram over to explore the following day. Like at Sale, the ‘medina’ was surrounded by huge city walls, but the new town had been built (by the French rulers in the early 1900s) outside the walls, and the whole medina was now literally ALL market. We were soon immersed in narrow streets full of shops showing off their wares. It was fascinating just to walk along and absorb the atmosphere.

Rabat medina walls

inside Rabat medina
       
old wooden door, Rabat

Men held out cashmere cardigans as we passed by, shouting out phrases we couldn’t understand. Others in colourful Berber costumes, complete with ‘lampshade hats’, wandered round offering water from animal skins and strings of brass cups over their shoulders.
Old men, and women, shuffled along with their hands outstretched, and we saw young women, when approached by them, stop and search for change in their purses. We assume there is little social service provision here, but it seems as though people don’t ignore those in need.
There were a huge number of stray cats on the streets too –curled up on windowsills, tree stumps, and even on a parked motorbike! Reuben reckons he counted 129 of them.


stray cats sleeping











Reuben with tortoises


We were amazed at the sheer size and variety of goods in the market.  There were sacks of dried beans, mountains of colourful spices, long strings of figs and several varieties of dates. Big tubs of colourful goo turned out to be soap and heavy metallic stones were kohl to grind ‘for ladies eyes’. Cracked mannequins showed off bejewelled dresses, and pairs of plastic legs stuck up from the floor modelling tights. Pyjamas and scarves were neatly stacked in piles alongside crates of tortoises (Reuben’s favourite!)

a well-stocked spice shop!

dried goods and spices


soap!

A table full of radios in the middle of the street parted the flow of people, and then a motorbike came through the midst of it all! A man sat unperturbed filling bags with verveine leaves for tea. You also had to watch out for barrows being wheeled through - full of fish, bundles of clothing, or round loaves of bread.
We saw these loaves being baked in a side street. An old-fashioned bread oven burned at the end of a dark room. One man stood waist-deep in a pit in front of it, and his job was to take three uncooked loaves from a tray behind him, slide them in on a flat tray with a 15’ long handle, then take out another three baked ones. Another man was busy stacking the cooked loaves on a tray, and replenishing the raw dough tray as necessary. The man at the door encouraged us in to watch and even gave us a free loaf!


bread going into oven



loading uncooked loaves

The central part of the medina seemed to cater mostly for local people. There was a vast fish market, and stalls selling meat, vegetables, eggs and live chickens. Street vendors sold chicken kebabs, sardine sandwiches, and other fried fish. Snack bars offered doner kebabs, spit-roast chicken, and one place had two whole steaming camel’s heads on offer (or so we assume, they looked a bit big for sheep…).
There were wonderful selections of cakes, most of which seemed to be based on almonds and/or honey. We saw a man pouring a jug of honey over a towering plate of cakes, oblivious to the cloud of wasps buzzing around him! We took refuge in a cake shop when we got tired and although there was nowhere to sit, it was nice to stop for a few minutes and refuel with cake and the local sweet peppermint tea.


Shoes on display

strange mannequins
lovely mannequins!


Towards the outer edges of the medina, shops sold more touristy stuff – colourful beaded shoes, leather bags, belts and pouffes, wooden knick-knacks, artworks and rugs. It went on and on, and we wondered how so many vendors could make a living with near-identical goods.

inside the kasbah
lovely doorways & windows in the kasbah


We finally came out on the other side of the medina, and walked along the river bank towards the city walls we had seen when we sailed in. These are the walls of the Kasbah - the old pirates’ stronghold, which was heavily fortified by them in the 16th century.  Nowadays, it is a maze of narrow alleyways, and local houses. The walls are all painted blue and white - (apparently the blue keeps flies away!), and are dotted with wonderful old doors and windows.

giant grasshopper

old palace garden

We found ourselves swept along by an unofficial ‘tour guide’, who led us through the maze, pointing out places of interest, and then named an extortionate fee for his services! He did know his stuff, however, telling us stories about many of the houses, and naming most of the plants in the old palace gardens, including papyrus and a huge poinsettia tree. After the extensive tour, we relaxed in the  café with tea and cakes, where we soon discovered the prices were twice that in town, and there was no escape from having our hands decorated with henna (for another small fee!)

Coke in Arabic
henna hands


The return journey to the marina was by ferry boat across the river – several men ply their trade in 20-foot wooden rowboats, which they stand and row forwards. We were tickled to see the ferryman had his brass teapot with him, and some of the boats even had carpets! It was a lovely relaxing end to a hectic day, for the princely sum of 25p each!


Reuben in the front of the ferry


carpet in ferry boat!


After the initial culture shock, we really enjoyed our time in Rabat, and ended up spending a whole week there. We wandered outside the medina walls of Sale, found a beach for the children to play on, and a rustic fish market. Next to it was an outdoor canteen, where they will cook your freshly-bought fish for you.

beach at Sale
local family on Sale beach
We saw a man doing intricate carving and embossing (marquetry?) in a little workshop. In broken French, he invited us in to watch as he chiselled out his design. His ‘chisel’ was a ground-down engine valve, which he used to incise the wood before hammering in lengths of metal strip and shaped pieces of cow-bone. Fascinating to watch and beautiful work.

beautiful woodcarving

woodworker following hand-drawn design
samples of finshed work

We visited the Tour Hassan, an unfinished palace, and mausoleum to three generations of kings.
We met several fellow cruisers in the marina, including an American family with three children aboard. We joined forces to go exploring together and our two had a great time playing (and watching movies) with them!

ceiling at king's palace


Katie at Tour Hassan

All in all, we felt very safe in Morocco and would definitely visit again. We have all had our eyes opened to a different culture and the children have lovely memories of bustling markets, glittering palaces, stray cats and tortoises!


 new friends over to play




1 Comments:

Anonymous Carol E Wyer said...

Hi Dave and Hazel. It was such a pleasure to meet you and your family at the restaurant in Marina Rubicon. I lived in Morocco for two years so this post has brought back good memories.
Hope to bump into you again and shall be following your adventures.
Carol and John AKA The Grumpies
www.carolewyer.co.uk

12:45 PM  

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