Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Baby McCabe

It’s official, there’s a baby McCabe on the way!



We had hoped to stay out here for the birth (early April) but due to minor complications, we’ve decided to take the safer option of flying back to the UK just in case.

Hazel is flying to London tomorrow and Dave is staying on for a week or two to finish giving the boat a good coat of paint before leaving it on a mooring in Simpson Bay lagoon.

So there will be no more trawler travels for three months or so. The good ship Ros Ailither has taken us over 10,000 nautical miles in the past year and now deserves a little rest.

We will be back in Topsham in a couple of weeks to sample some good old British winter weather and look forward to seeing everybody there.

Monday, January 29, 2007

Whittons on holiday

Within a few days of arrival in St Martin, we were joined by the Whitton family (minus the girls), laden down with supplies of fig rolls and sandpaper from the UK. True to form, Dave gave them an embarrassing welcome at the airport, followed by a tow across the lagoon in a sinking dinghy for Ed. Nothing like arriving in style!


Baby Archie had a bit of trouble adjusting to the heat and strange surroundings, but seemed happy once we rigged him up a hammock above Ed & Maria’s bed.


The first of the holiday activities was a brief diving course in the clear waters of Marigot Bay. After spending 20 minutes struggling into a wetsuit and boots, Ed finally took the plunge and nearly reached the staggering depth of 3 feet before abandoning his instructor (Dave) and spectacularly failing his PADI certificate.


A couple of days later, we took the trawler out of the placid waters of the lagoon to watch the start of the classic regatta. We hoisted all canvas and sailed alongside the twenty-odd entering boats at the start of the race. As the distance from land increased to nearly a mile, the gentle chop got the better of Maria, who was spotted hanging over the guard rails and sharing her Caribbean breakfast with the fish.


For the next few days, we did some island exploring, visiting the beach and tourist shops in Phillipsburg (on the Dutch side), haggling at the colourful market stalls in Marigot (on the French side) and doing a spot of fine dining.










There were several ‘boys trips’ to Budget Marine and around the lagoon, admiring the megayachts – one with a helicopter, a 50’ powerboat and a 45’ yacht on deck. But Ed’s personal favourite was the one with triplets – a green and purple beauty with three 200hp engines on the transom!


The highlight of the holiday was when ‘Ros Ailither’ was lifted out of the water and Ed was invited to join the sanding team – a real treat in 30 degrees heat! Dave even supplied personalized overalls and a refreshing swim in the lagoon at the end of the day.


Maria and I took Archie to the beach to get away from all the dust and managed to pick a day of big northerly swells. Entering the water was a matter of careful timing between waves, we both managed to get tumbled in the process and decided it probably wasn’t wise to take Archie in.



Before we knew it we were back to the airport to see them off – twice, as the plane was delayed by three hours! Dave and I watched them go from an amazing beach literally at the end of the runway and directly under the flight path. Planes coming in to land seem only feet above and you are separated from those taking off by a flimsy wire fence and 200 yards of tarmac. We watched people hanging onto the fence as planes took off directly in front of them and decided to try it with Ed & Maria's flight.
We waved to the Corsair plane as it turned then got blasted by the full force of four jets which hurled hot gases and gravel directly at us (ouch!) and blew the top layer of sand off the beach way out to sea. It wasn't till after that we realised the force had blown our rucksack and shoes into the sea. Luckily they were pulled out by a friendly (fellow Brit) holidaymaker. Now we know where the name of the 'Soggy Dollar Bar' comes from!

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Anegada Passage

St Martin is only 80 nautical miles from the BVIs but is often a notoriously rough trip across the Anegada Passage against both prevailing wind and current.
After New Year, we monitored the weather forecast and waited for a lull in the stronger-than-average ‘Christmas winds’. In the meantime we did another circumnavigation of Tortola, stocking up with fresh groceries in Road Town and visiting Soper’s Hole and Cane Garden Bay, a pretty spot but one of the most touristy we’d seen. One enterprising local was trying his luck at selling coconuts, loudly proclaiming that they were ‘the natural Viagra’!
After a week we were rewarded with a drop in the wind to a force 2, barely a breeze, and minimal swell.



We went to Virgin Gorda to check out with Customs, left from there at three in the afternoon and had a peaceful overnight trip. There were plenty of lights to watch out for - several yachts were making the same passage as us, a handful of cargo ships crossed our path and a bunch of cruise ships drifted slowly towards St Martin, each one lit up like a small city.



Sixteen hours after setting off, we motored in to Marigot Bay along with a five-masted cruise ship. It was just after dawn and there was barely a ripple on the water as we crept in amongst the anchored boats and dropped our hook. The water was crystal clear and we could see starfish laying on the sandy bottom beneath us.



Our first job was to string up the hammock to enjoy the early morning peace and tranquillity before the anchorage came to life. Within an hour it was buzzing with dinghies and cruise ship boats dropping passengers ashore. Time to start the day…

Monday, January 08, 2007

Totally Tropical New Year 2007




After saying goodbye to our Xmas visitors, we stayed where we were, forgoing Foxy’s big bash on Jost van Dyke for a more laid-back New Year’s celebration in Trellis Bay.
The local artist had fabricated one of his signature ‘fireballs’, a five-foot round steel ball from which he cuts shapes to leave a latticework of dancing figures. With a fire lit inside the ball, the design is brought to life in flames.
This year, the ball was joined by a pyramid and a cube, all with different designs cut in them, and all three were planted just above water level ten feet off the beach. In the midst of them all was a fifteen-foot high ‘man’ created from palm branches and propped up by poles.
The music started at midday and carried right on through the early hours, with various changes of tempo. By the time we went ashore, there was a band of six 70-year-old black men in straw hats and colourful waistcoats creating rhythmic tunes on the most unlikely instruments –a banjo, a squeezebox and a cheesegrater.
Just before midnight, the three ‘fireballs’ were lit, sending a cloud of smoke and sparks towards the crowd on the beach, not to mention the ten-feet flames licking out from the sides of each sculpture. Quite an impressive sight! Sadly, the palm frond man had fallen over in the sea earlier and refused to burn, despite several pots of lighter fluid being poured over him. However, the fireworks didn’t disappoint and amongst the mayhem we finally got to see some silk-trousered ‘jumbie walkers’ striding past the flames on stilts.
All in all, a very Caribbean start to the New Year 2007. Not an Auld Lang Syne to be heard…