Monday, September 10, 2007

Grandparents to visit

We have just had our first visitors to Maine - Hazel’s Mum and Dad flew over for a ten-day visit, bringing with them supplies of Jelly Babies, Fig Rolls and other such UK delicacies. They were amazed to see the difference in Katie, who they last saw at one-week old. She is now very aware of what is going on, and is getting pretty vocal about her likes and dislikes. Bathtime she likes!



Their first weekend here coincided with the American Folk Festival in Bangor so we took the boat upriver to watch the fun. There were five stages showing an enormous diversity of acts, including Tibetan monks’ bell-ringing (in fantastic costumes), fishermens’ shanties and Appalachian folk singing. We saw a bizarre demonstration of Inuit throat-singing as well as the more traditional blues and folk music.
The weather was scorching, in the 80’s, and we had a perfect dockside location to retreat to. We had our fair share of onlookers there, especially when Dave got Katie in the paddling pool – a joy to watch her laughing and splashing!
Lots of regional food was also on offer – we settled for clam chowder (seafood stew) and, on a friend’s recommendation, tried a ‘blooming onion’, a huge onion sliced in such a way that when it was deep-fried in batter it opened out to make a huge ‘flower’ of onion ring pieces. Delicious!



After the festival, we motored, sailed and drifted down the river to Bucksport, where a brand-new suspension bridge crosses the river. We sailed under it last year when it was still under construction (the two halves didn’t quite meet), now it fully replaces the old road bridge to link the islands heading 'down east'. We took the superfast elevator up one of the bridge towers for spectacular views from the top. At 42 stories high, this is one of only three such Observation Towers in the world and the first in the US.

From Bucksport, we skirted the top of Islesboro and went down the east side of Penobscot Bay. We stopped at Bucks Harbour, Stonington, Ile au Haut and Vinylhaven, each night on a different island. Two anchorages were new to us, both very remote and scenic. One we shared with just one other boat - they must have been delighted when we turned up!

Dave varnished the mast while the rest of us climbed Duck Mountain on Ile au Haut, Grandad carrying Katie in the sling. We had great views over Penobscot Bay from the top but got a bit concerned when the path led us further and further away from the starting point. We were relieved to finally rejoin the main track but then got attacked by hordes of mosquitoes. Katie was well covered up but we were all in shorts…



Back on the mooring in Belfast, we explored locally by car, visiting the excellent Searsport Maritime Museum and Dave’s favourite - Liberty Tools, chock full of second-hand and antique tools. We drove along the wooded coast, past inland lakes and climbed Mount Battie for a wonderful view over the Bay from the opposite shore.

Mum and Dad were surprised by the variety of wildlife they saw – a family of ospreys regularly circle overhead in Belfast, alighting on one mast and then another. We had often heard a bird cheeping nearby but hadn’t associated the tiny cheep with these big birds of prey! We saw a bald eagle along the banks of the river and lots of seals and porpoises in the water. Although moose and deer run wild in Maine, the only animals we saw in the trees during our walks were squirrels and chipmunks.



We went to Blue Hill Fair, an old-fashioned country fair with cattle shows, sheepdog trials, an oxen pull, prize marrows and dahlias. Katie went on her first Ferris wheel and Dave picked her a lucky duck to win a cuddly toy. There were stalls galore selling lobster rolls, hot dogs, fudge, candy floss, ‘doughboys’ (a doughnut the size of a dinner plate). There was a lumberjack display where they chopped logs, ‘sculpted’ a very disappointing rabbit with a chainsaw, and two girls in checked shirts danced on top of a rolling floating log.

And last but not least, on the way to the airport we stopped at Dysarts, a big family-run truckstop to admire the shiny trucks and sample some good honest Maine home-cooking - the biggest plate of mushrooms my Mum had ever seen! It was so good we stopped in again on the way home.


sunrise from the porthole

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