Friday, July 04, 2008

Back in mainland Europe

We left the Azores in flat calm conditions. We motored away from Sao Miguel and watched the lights of it grow smaller all through the night before the island disappeared altogether the next morning. The wind stayed light and almost on the nose so we hoisted the main, topsail and jib and motor-sailed for the next four days, enjoying the warm temperatures and calm, almost glassy, seas. None of us felt remotely seasick this time, and even Katie had her sea-legs from the start. And her appetite!



John did an amazing job of spotting wildlife.
He identified lots of birds - Cory’s Shearwaters, Bulwers petrels,Wilsons and Maderian storm petrels, some that even John had never seen before.
We saw a shark, a shoal of tuna and one turtle drift by. We saw plenty of dolphins, both common and striped - often feeding in groups, with shearwaters circling above to pick up stray fish.


Most amazing of all were the number of whales. Some were too far away to identify and others only surfaced briefly. One crossed so close across our bows one morning that John thought we might have a collision. But we had clear views of a pod of sperm whales swimming parallel to the boat, fin whales coming the opposite way and minkes up close. One large but unidentified whale easily overtook us when we were sailing along at 6 or 7 knots; they really are magnificent creatures.

After four days the wind finally picked up from a good direction, allowing us to sail. A gaff-rigged schooner appeared on the horizon and stayed on a parallel course for two days. We spoke on the VHF, they were the 100’ sail-training vessel ‘Ruach’ from Germany, heading home after a planned stop in Torquay. Eventually we parted company as they kept on their direct route and we altered course eastwards to avoid gale force winds further north.

A storm was heading for western Ireland and kicking up big seas even 300 miles to the south. Winds were no more than force 5 where we were but big swells created an impressive sea and we rolled quite nicely for the next couple of days.



Katie was fine throughout, although she was frustrated at not being allowed on deck so much. Instead, she enjoyed bouncing around the material walls of my bunk below.
John found the motion hard to cope with and didn’t feel he’d really got his sea-legs yet. However, he still valiantly stood his watch, helped out with Katie and did his share of cooking etc.

A swift circled us for a while before landing, exhausted, on the rigging. We kept him warm in a box and despite John’s best efforts at reviving him with water and food, he had to be given a sea burial two days later.

Katie missed Jackie but became better acquainted with Jay on this trip. Jay also showed great potential as a master chef. He spent ages whisking egg whites and sugar by hand, here he is mastering the art of piping!
Despite Jay’s best efforts, and three hours in the oven, they didn’t turnout quite as we’d hoped and also had to be given a sea burial.

Comment from Jay: Stupid meringues!


Just as the sea started calming down, the latest weatherfax showed a new gale forming in the Bay of Biscay so decided to head for shelter. We are now in a small town called Sada, just south of la Coruna. We met friends with a similar trawler on our outward journey three years ago and they have settled here on land. We are catching up with them while we wait for better weather conditions to head for Brest.

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